The last time I visited Turkey was in 1987, a whopping 36 years ago. I was captivated by the bustling markets and the stalls filled with Middle Eastern and Asian treasures. A lot has changed since then so I was really looking forward to re-discovering parts already traveled to and to discovering new and exciting historical and cultural landmarks.
Turkey is considered one of the greatest Empires of all time and it is also the largest landmass in the region. Nestled between Europe and Asia, this country is actually 1 of the 17 countries that make up the Middle East. It is often referred to as a ‘cradle of civilisation’ and its history of Ottoman rule spans centuries. The resulting fusion of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cultures is a huge attraction for curious wanderers.
Food and Beverage
Turkey has a lot of different tastes in large part due to its unique location straddling Europe and Asia. In the past, Turkey was very important in the spice trade. From an Eastern Mediterranean perspective, the use of spices is very important. So naturally adding Turkish party favorites like Sumac, Thyme, cumin and rosemary to food can really make it stand out. The best part is that it’s low in calories.
Turkish seasoning is a flavorful blend of earthy spices that adds depth and complexity to dishes like meats, vegetables, and stews. It’s versatile enough to be used in traditional dishes like doner kebab. Hence the reason why Turkish cuisine is so renowned. The food is rich in flavors, albeit not particularly spicy and its dishes consist heavily of vegetables that are decorated with just right amount of spices.
Though traditionally based on lamb and mutton, Turkish cuisine still includes beef and chicken that are usually prepared through roasting and grilling. The end result is the famous and savory Turkish kebabs. But there’s much more to Turkish cuisine than grilled meat.
In Turkey, meal portions are smaller compared to those in North America. Vegetables dominate most meals. Dolma is a great option to nibble on. It’s stuffed grape leaves and can be eaten as a meal itself or a side dish. Most meals, though many vegetable recipes use small amounts of meat as a flavoring. I’m not a meat lover and I definitely choose vegetables on any given meal so Turkey was a great fit for me food wise.
Bread is routinely baked fresh early morning and served at breakfast and lunch, and late afternoon for dinner, and varies from the sourdough to whole wheat loafs served with fresh artisan cheese like feta.
Turkish coffee is an ancient tradition. It in fact has a 500 year history. It’s not considered just a a simple drink, but it’s a lifestyle. It’s the world’s oldest coffee brewing method, invented in the 16th century; during the Ottoman Empire. While many of us drink our coffee on the go, Turkish coffee is not meant to be drunk in a rush or even by yourself. It’s a ritual here in Turkey. Water is served alongside the coffee to cleanse the palate while you wait for the coffee to cool down and for the grounds to sink to the bottom of the cup. Turkish coffee is often served after meals where friends and family can linger and chat while they digest and enjoy the beverage. Pistachio coffee was a delightful treat that tasted more like hot chocolate.
Turkish tea (pronounced like “chai”) is more popular than Turkish coffee among locals, but you can find them both easily. A delicious variant is pomegranate tea. The most popular tea is black tea, but you can also find apple tea, which is very sweet and almost like cider. Apple tea was our absolute favorite while we explored Turkey.
Ayran is a refreshing Turkish drink made from just three ingredients: yogurt, salt, and water. Turks drink ayran to cool off on a hot day, for a light breakfast or afternoon snack, or to mellow a rich or spicy meal. Because of its salt component, it replaces the salt lost by the body on hot days. It’s tart, creamy and salty all at the same time!
In Istanbul, everywhere you look you can see baklavas which is a dessert made, usually, with honey and walnuts. You will not have to look very far either for Turkish delights which are a gelatinous sweet confection traditionally made of syrup and roasted chestnuts. And then there is everything in between usually made with some kind of nuts, honey and maybe even chocolate:)
Things to do in Istanbul
With its strategic location on the Bosphorus peninsula between the Balkans and Anatolia, the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, Istanbul has been associated with major political, religious and artistic events for more than 2,000 years. Its masterful landmarks include the Hippodrome of Constantine, the 6th-century Hagia Sophia and the 16th-century Blue Mosque. There is no shortage of treasures in this city.
Another cool feature to its location is that one part of Istanbul sits on the European side of the globe and the part in Asia. Istanbul’s European part is separated from its Asian part by the Bosphorus strait. This is a 31-km-long waterway that connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara. This waterway forms a natural boundary between the two continents.
The alleyways lined with hip, modern or plain old school coffee houses and restaurants was pretty neat as well. There are a ton of places to hang out and just people watch if that’s your jam.
Dolmabahce Palace
Dolmabahce Palace was built in 19th century and it ranks as one of the most glamorous palaces in the world. It used to be the administrative center of the late Ottoman Empire with the last of Ottoman Sultans was residing there.
It is Istanbul’s first European-style palace, built between 1843 and 1856 by Sultan Abdulmecid. This was an attempt to modernize Istanbul, at a cost of 35 tons of gold. It was on the site of a former wooden Ottoman palace and imperial gardens constructed on the shore of the Bosporus strait.
This opulent Palace was home to 6 sultans between 1856 and the abolition of the caliphate in 1924. It continued to be used as a presidential residence until 1949. However, since 1984 it has been operated as a museum by the Directorate of National Palaces.
Hagia Sophia
The Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque has it all: innovative architecture, colorful history, religious significance and exquisite characteristics which has led to it waging a war against time for centuries. It used to be the largest Eastern Roman Church in İstanbul. However, it was constructed 3 times in the same location. Hagia Sophia holds the world record in oldest and fastest-completed cathedral.
The combination of its ethereal domes, monolithic marble columns and extravagant mosaics, is one of world’s most treasured architecture. The incredible beauty of mosque with its mesmerizing use of space, light, and color is thought provoking and offers lots of opportunities for one to reflect about life’s mysteries.
The Courtyard of Hagia Sophia that is shared with Topkapi Palace is home to a pandemonium of parrots. A shipping container containing these exotic birds was once left unsecured and a bunch escaped. They made their way to this iconic monument and started nesting in the sides of the building and in the trees surrounding it. There were hundreds!
Topkapi Palace
Set on top of the most visible hill of Istanbul, Topkapi Palace, is without a doubt the symbol of the city. Its decadence, prestige and magnificence is anchored in history, it offers visitors a chance to get to know the Sultans of the once glorious Ottoman Empire. Things like uniks were brought in to keep the Sultan’s family company. Who knew?
It was built in 1461 by Mehmet the Conqueror and remained both the symbolic and political home of the Ottoman Empire until Sultan Abdülmecid I moved the empire. During the 4 centuries in between, it was the gracious host of 22 different Sultans and their families.
Topkapi museum is now the most popular and by far the most visited museum in the city. Roughly, 3 million people flock to its doors annually. Given this, this means the crowds can be overwhelming and the queues can be quite long, especially to see the Imperial Treasury and Room of the Relics of the Prophet.
The Blue Mosque
The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, otherwise known as the Blue Mosque is an imperial mosque. It is a perfect symbol of iconic and legendary Ottoman architecture. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, features blue tiles on the interior walls, earning the colorful moniker: the Blue Mosque. Whether you are Muslim, Christian, Buddhist, Hindu or other, people from all over the world come to this particular mosque to enjoy and relish in its beauty and splendor.
The blue tiles are just one of the architectural details of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque that make it one of Turkey’s most beautiful mosques: Its interior features about 20,000 hand-painted blue tiles in the Iznik pottery style. These Iznik tiles feature 60 unique tulip patterns. As light flows in through 260 stained glass windows, the patterns on the glass come to life. The Blue Mosque is one of only five mosques in Turkey that boasts six minarets. The minarets rise to 210 feet, and each has either two or three balconies. Additionally, this Mosque has a central dome surrounded by four other main domes and eight secondary domes. The central dome stands at 141 fee, has 28 windows, while the semi-domes have 14.
Hippodrome of Constantinople
The Hippodrome was the centre of Byzantium’s life for 1000 years and of Ottoman life for another 400 years. Like high school was for many of us, this venue has been the scene of numerous dramas, mostly political. Recently, it has been re-landscaped and is a beautiful promenade that promises to give you nothing but peaceful vibes.
The Byzantine emperors loved nothing more than spending an afternoon at their cherished chariot races, and this venue named the Hippodrome of Constantinople was their location of choice. Back in the day, it was decorated by obelisks and statues, some of which remain in place today.
The Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is one of the world’s most famous shopping destinations. It is 30,700 square meters, and as such is considered the world’s biggest enclosed bazaar. Once inside, the Bazaar contains 64 streets and smaller alleyways house that roughly house 4,000 stores. There is also a mosque, post office, cafes, banks, and police station. This place is nothing short of a small city.
Here, you can find many beautiful treasures that are representative of this unique culture. During the Ottoman Empire era, hand-woven textiles and jewelry were collected in the Grand Bazaar from all over the country. It has evolved into a bonafide shopping paradise for the ones who especially appreciate authentic jewelry and traditional textiles.
Things to do in Cappadocia
Cappadocia means the land of beautiful horses. It reminds me of a whimsical place that was extracted from a fairytale and then placed on these Anatolian plains. It is truly a geological oddity that is woven with honeycombed hills and hovering boulders. Both of which display unparalleled beauty.
The magical topography is complimented by the history of its inhabitants. People have long utilised the region’s soft stone, seeking shelter underground and leaving the countryside scattered with breathtaking and quirky cavern architecture. The rock-cut churches, the subterranean refuges and the cave hotels in these parts are not to be missed and are ell worth experiencing.
Goreme museum
This Unesco World Heritage site is an essential stop on any Cappadocian itinerary. It was first thought to be a Byzantine settlement that housed 20 some odd monks. Following this assumption, then a pilgrimage site from the 17th century. It is stupendous cluster of monastic artistry adorned with its rock-cut churches, chapels and monasteries that sits 1km uphill from Goreme’s centre.
The most famous of the museum’s churches is the Dark Church. It takes its name from the fact that it originally had very few windows. Due to the lack of light penetrating inside the church, the vivid colour of the frescoes, which show, among other things, Christ Pantocrator, the Nativity, the Transfiguration, the Betrayal by Judas and the Crucifixion, were all preserved pristinely. The walk to get to this bad boy is a ways uphill so pack a comfortable pair of walking shoes!
Devrent Valley
Devrent Valley in Cappadocia is often called Devrent Imaginary Valley because it has been described by many by thousands of years of erosion, as rocks formed to look like animals. One of the first sights that greet you upon arrival is an enormous rock which looks like a camel. It doesn’t actually take a vivid imagination to come to these great conclusions as it’s pretty easy to spot animal silhouettes carved into the rocks.
Devrent Valley is not very big so it’s easy to walk around the different formations without expending too much energy. Devrent Valley was never inhabited by humans so there are no rock cut churches or castles to explore either. A highlight though were the pink-tinted rocks that look a bit like a lunar landscape which we found to be quite splendid.:)
Avanos
Avanos is a town that has been built around it most prized production, pottery. Its pottery is iconic and is certainly well known for being pretty. The small town sits next to the Kizilirmak (Red) River, which happens to be Turkey’s longest river.
Avanos has raised generations of potters in this village that have obtained the red pottery clay from the river banks to create some of the most eye catching pottery I have ever seen. Today, tourists flock to this town each year for a chance to witness and experience this steeped in tradition evolution firsthand. We were no exception to this.
Uchisar
Uchisar has long been recognized as the gate to Cappadocia. The oldest history of this glorious spot dates back to the Neolithic period. Polished stones were found in the excavations here and the first written tablets of Anatolia belonging to the Hittite and Assyrian periods were also discovered in this location. Uchisar has been both the guardian of the underground cities and a strategic defense area using its castle chosen by the first Christians to hide. Hence why Uchisar Castle is also referred to as the ‘eye of Cappadocia’.
Pasabagi (Monks Valley)
This small valley is home to a bizarre three-headed rock formation as well as some of Cappadocia’s most famous examples of basalt-topped fairy chimneys. At one point in time, monks inhabited the valley. A really magical experience and you have the opportunity to climb inside one chimney to a monk’s quarters, decorated with Hellenic crosses. Once inside, there are steps leading to a chapel where 3 monumental paintings in which one of them depicts the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus.
The rock formations are like a fairy tale. The top of the rock formations are made from basalt, the middle is made from ash and the bottoms from basalt. This is as a result of all the volcanic activity that once came alive in the region.
Goreme Panorama
Near to Goreme in Cappadocia, there is an area called Panoramic View. It gives you views over the whole of Goreme and if travel photography is your thing, I can guarantee that you will end up with some National Geographic worthy pictures.
Rose and Red Valley
The rocks here shine red, ochre and white! However, one of the most interesting parts of exploring these valleys is finding the hidden churches along the way. It’s a bit like playing Marco Polo where you never get a response so you kind of have to just guess unless you download yourself an interactive map.
The Red Valley Cappadocia sunset viewpoint is definitely a highlight because it showcases the gorgeous and picturesque rugged ted cliffs which tend to pop in color in the late afternoon. As the sun sets, we quickly realized why this place is so aptly called the Red Valley. In fact, beauty aside, this is the most popular sunset spot in Cappadocia because it offers uninterrupted views all the way to Uchisar Castle.
Cavusin
Cavusin is a quaint town in the region that has a castle in the dead center of own. It’s actually a stunning piece of architecture carved into a mountain. The entire location was once inhabited until the 1950’s when locals were forced to leave their homes due the treacherous conditions created by falling rocks.
Today, the insides of these former dwellings have been exposed over time to the elements and it has caused a natural erosion. Ceilings and structures alike have completely collapsed however, by climbing to the top of the village, the views below are simply spectacular! If you are lucky enough to get a clear sky like we did, the Red Valley is visible from one side and Uchisar Castle on the other.
Pigeon Valley
In addition to being a feast for eyes, Pigeon Valley, is a scenic valley close to Uchisar town. It is named after the numerous pigeon homes that have been cut into the soft tufa since ancient times. Several cave pigeon houses have been painted white to entice birds and their valuable droppings. The region’s pigeons have been around since the 9th century.
The valley is ultra picturesque offering charming vistas as well. Pigeons were once used to courier messages. Pigeon messaging wasn’t the only lucrative business in town, their waste was used for fertilizer. At some point in time the these regional pigeons were consumed as well. Thus, little holes have been made almost anywhere they can fit. Pigeon real estate is probably more important than human real estate largely because they are essential to the people who live here.
Underground Cities: Kaymakli
The idea behind these cool subterranean cities was to protect the inhabitants from foreign invasion. This would provide a safe haven to inhabitants and they could essentially go about their business in complete and total secrecy. During the 14th century, the caves provided Christians with a safe haven from the threat of the Mongolians during the assaults on Timur. This particular city has 4 subterranean levels available explore. Each floor gets progressively more confined the deeper you go, which is expected therefore, if you are a tad claustrophobic, exploring the first 2 levels would be a suitable option.
Even as late as the 20th century, the underground cities enabled people to save themselves from persecution during the Ottoman Empire. It was not until 1923, after the population exchange between Greece and Turkey, that the underground cities were completely abandoned and, then, completely forgotten until 1963, until they were rediscovered.
The deepest underground city is Derinkuyu which was built during the Byzantine era. During this time, inhabitants used the multi-level city to hide from the invading Muslim Arabs. The city is impressive and is composed of many passages and caves lying at around 60m or 197ft under the ground. Would you believe that Derinkuyu was able to shelter around 20,000 people as well as their livestock and food!
Ortahisar
Ortahisar Castle, also known as the most spectacular fairy chimney of Cappadocia, is located in Ortahisar town of Nevsehir. The legend is that this is one of the first multi-storey settlements in the world. The castle itself is surrounded by steep valleys on three sides. Its geography enabled the castle to be used for protection and shelter in ancient times. The castle, is where the first settlement of peoples began, later becoming the center of Ortahisar in time as more settlements were built around it.
The history of the castle is very old. After the Hittite, Phrygian, Lycian, Persian, Roman and Byzantine domination, the region came under the rule of the Turks. Uchisar Castle which has been the bloody scene of many battles that have been both victorious and lost throughout its sordid history. The Castle consists of chambers and tunnels built by carving rocks. It’s a pretty neat place to visit!
Things to do in Ephesus
Ephesus used to be an ancient port city whose ruins have been well- preserved. The city considered the most important Greek city as well as the most important trading center in the Mediterranean region. Throughout history, Ephesus survived countless attacks and with those attacks had succumbed to different conquerors. It was also the epicenter of early Christian evangelism! Like Tammy Faye Baker kind of evangelism lol Today it remains an important archaeological site on top of being an important and instrumental pilgrimage destination for Christians worldwide.
The House of Virgin Mary
Ah the House of Virgin Mary…..apparently this is where the Virgin Mary had spent her last days and subsequently where she had died. This is all speculation of course but there is no shortage of indicators and warnings that she did in fact hike up here. The house consists of just 2 rooms. It’s quite small and unremarkable. Through word of mouth, the efforts to find the house were greatly influenced by a detailed description of the Virgin Mary’s coming to Ephesus, her life and her last home there and the characteristics of the city. It’s important to note that by many accounts, the Virgin Mary had never actually been to Ephesus.
Regardless of semantics, this place of pilgrimage visited by thousands of tourists every year, and it maintains its holiness for Muslims and Christians alike. People believing in the godly qualities of the Virgin Mary continue to come here and drink from the water believed to be sacred.
Ancient Ephesus
The history of Ephesus is long, arduous, complicated and mysterious, and it dates back to the 10th century. It was founded by a Greek Prince in Athens. This is according to a prophecy from the oracle of Delphi.
However, Greek historians believed, by Ephos, queen of the Amazons. Regardless, this city on the Ionian coast of modern day western Turkey has become one of the most important cities of antiquity. Its location in juxtaposition with its thriving port was much desired. Given its popularity during its peak, it was also conquered a few times over.
Today Ephesus is arguably one of Turkey’s most important archeological sites and a World UNESCO Heritage site. Additionally, it is one of the world’s most well preserved Greco-Roman cities and a must see when visiting Turkey. It brings visitors and pilgrims from all over the world to experience first hand what is left of the majesty and grandeur of what was once the crown jewel of the Aegean. We were lucky enough to be be greeted by the famous cat of Ephesus named “Garfield”. He’s got his own Instagram and a ton of followers. He is pretty sweet and loves pets 🙂
Temple of Artemis
The Temple of Artemis is known as one of the 7 Wonders of the ancient world. It has been built in the areas of Ephesus exploiting the flat area which has over the centuries turned into a swamp. Today, the ruins of the foundations of this marvelous construction of the Hellenistic Age, entirely made of marble and full of sculptured columns’ capitals and shafts are what’s left and what’s visible to the naked eye. The one pillar that’s left standing in these ruins has a huge stork nest on top of it. There were at least 3 babies in the nest!
I’m no Greek Mythologist but Artemis was also called Cynthia. Her birth place was Mount Cynthus in Delos and Miss Cynthia was Apollo’s twin sister (daughter of Zeus and Leto). She was one of the 3 maiden goddesses of Olympus: Artemis, was a lover of woods and the wild chase over the mountain. That’s about all I could remember from the spiel lol
Pamukkale
Clinging to the side of a ridge, the grand and absolutely stunning white calcium pools that have formed here, have long been one of the most photographed places in all of Turkey. Its name, Pamukkale, literally translates to “cotton castle”, feels like a walk through fluffy clouds.
At one point when a spring containing a high content of dissolved calcium bicarbonate cascaded over the edge of the cliff, Paukkale was formed after it had cooled and hardened leaving calcium deposits. Over time, natural pools, shelves and ridges, were created. Yes, you can totally take a dip here:)
This UNESCO World Heritage site has rightly earned its place on this list. Pamukkale’s beauty and splendor will captivate your senses and will have your imagination doing summersaults; it’s simply that breathtaking!
Hierapolis
It is not the only treasure found here though, is also the site of the ancient city of Hierapolis; which has many interesting ruins.
This ancient spa city’s location atop Pamukkale’s tourist-magnet travertines is quite spectacular. Founded as a curative centre around 190 BC by Eumenes II of Pergamum, it prospered under both the Romans and Byzantines, when large Jewish and Orthodox Christian communities comprised most of the population.
Recurrent earthquakes brought disaster, and Hierapolis was finally abandoned after an AD 1334 tremor. The Roman Theatre, the agora and the on-site museum are all with a gander.
Worth the visit or not: WORTH
There are countless reasons to visit Turkey. It’s got a lot going for it: breathtaking scenery, fascinating history, intricate architecture, lovely people, delicious food, and some of the best shopping….just to name a few!
Before the Ottomans, this entire area was known as Anatolia (Asia Minor). It’s been inhabited since the Stone Age, and has seen civilizations as diverse as Assyrian, Hittite, Persian, Greek, and Roman (which became Byzantine). Because of this long and rich history, Turkey is home to some ancient wonders that many people don’t associate with the modern country. One can find ruins of churches and temples (including the Temple of Artemis, which was one of the original Seven Wonders of the World), rock-hewn tombs, in-tact Roman theaters, underground cities, and the ruins of ancient cities like Ephesus and Troy.
The landscapes in Turkey are varying, ranging from curvaceous mountains to salt flats to the deep blue of the Mediterranean Ocean. It is quite simply divine.
The people in Turkey are known for being warm and hospitable. From the unrelenting carpet salesmen to the incessant souvenir vendor, there is always a polite interaction and a friendly smile that awaits you…..even after you tell them no. With the exception of the guy at the visa counter at the airport, that guy was a huge dick. He totally ruined my day lol
And if you are a cat lover like both my husband and I, Turkey is a place that worships cats. Cats are everywhere literally……..Here, they are the rulers of this modern day empire. Most are very friendly:) If you’re lucky, like we were, some may even jump up into your lap while you sip on your tea at a cafe.
Turkey is a Muslim-majority country, but it’s one of the less conservative ones I’ve visited so far. While right-wing politics still hold the majority, there has been a shift recently. Still devout, Turkey is becoming more relaxed and as a result visiting it feels, at most times, like a Western nation.
Finally; it’s impossible to not fall in love with Turkish cuisine. It’s far from dross and I guarantee that every bite will taste like your favorite holiday in your mouth.
Happy Travels!