Newfoundland: St. John’s and it’s surroundings

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St. John’s harbour

St. John’s is the capital and largest city of Newfoundland. It is also Canada’s most easterly Capital city. Located on the Avalon peninsula, it sits on the steep, western slope of a landlocked harbour that opens suddenly to the frigid waters of the Atlantic Ocean. We flew in from Halifax which offers daily flights to what the locals affectionally call their home province, “The Rock”.

Things to do in St.John’s

St. John’s offers the perfect balance between nature and nightlife. From the colorful shenanigans to be had on George street to the stunning scenery of the East Coast Trail……St. John’s is the gateway to a laid back and good time. Bonus: Newfoundlanders are some of the most welcoming and friendliest people I have ever met.

The colorful houses in downtown St.John’s

The Rooms Museum

The Rooms is Newfoundland and Labrador’s largest public cultural space. Some of the most extensive and unique to NL artifacts and art pieces reside in this building. The cool design of the building is inviting on its own but what the inside has to offer is definitely a multi- sensory experience. The museum offers Military / Veterans discounts as well.

The province has a lively history that has always been enhanced by their creative spirits and minds. From fishing to military to Indigenous to geological history, this museum has all the bases covered. Many of the collections that are housed here seem to bring NL and Labrador’s history and heritage to life. There’s a lot of pride that can be felt when visiting and viewing the artifacts and pieces at The Rooms. Plus the view into St.John’s Harbour is second to none!

Signal Hill

Overtaking the harbour in an overbearing fashion, Signal Hill overlooks the quite narrow passage into St. John’s waterfront. This heritage site has been a key part of this province’s military and communications history.

Signal Hill has several options for visitors. Cabot Tower which is located at the very top of the hill is a stone fortress. On the main floor of the tower you will find the Heritage Shop. In addition to the site’s history, Signal Hill has some of the most breathtaking views of St. John’s and the outlining coast of the Avalon Peninsula. Additionally, there is a hiking trail which leads from Cabot Tower to the Battery and back.

Signal Hill

Battery Lookout

At the base of the steep cliffs between Signal Hill and St. John’s harbour rests Battery Lookout. Narrow lanes wind around the houses, making it a precarious drive through the streets to get there. It is definitely a good place to get out of the car and walk around to avoid any collisions. There is also a public access to the North Head walking trail that snakes around Signal Hill crossing into the doorstep of a private home in the Battery.

Battery Lookout

Memorial University Botanical Gardens

Memorial University Botanical Garden is a place to explore as you take in the exquisite botanicals and cultivated gardens. It’s like a sensory overload as you and hike the trails that are hidden in the spectacular boreal forest surrounding it. Once you hit the trails there are plenty of benches you can sit on to take it the beautiful surroundings.

Opulent displays of native as well as exotic plants were on full display. There are also a host of perennial and vegetable gardens. Memorial University Botanical gardens is like Christmas for nature lovers! There are 5 trails to do on the grounds. The longest trail takes roughly 90 mins to complete. There is a cute little cafe on site as well.

Cape Spear Lighthouse, Cape Spear, NL

Cape Spear is the oldest lighthouse in all of a Newfoundland and Labrador. Constructed in 1836, this National Historic site is a prime example of the unique lighthouse architecture of that particular period. A new lighthouse tower was constructed nearby in 1955 using the original light. Cape Spear is a beautiful setting with amazing views of the Atlantic Ocean. The 30 minute drive from St.John’s is well worth it:)

The foggiest picture shows the original lighthouse built in 1836.

Quidi Vidi fishing village

Pronounced “Kiddy Viddy”, this quaint fishing village located on the eastern part of St.John’s is like going back in time. Colourful wooden fishing stages adorn the rugged harbourside cliffs as this locale rests at the base of Signal Hill. Locals refer to Quidi Vidi as “the gut”, and there is plenty of things to see and do here. There are wonderful artists galleries nestled in everywhere and a vibrant foodie scene that specializes in seafood and fusion. Breweries are bountiful in this centuries old neighborhood as well.

Quidi Vidi

Food and Beverage

Pineapple Crush is produced by Browning Harvey Ltd. This company has a strong foothold and a plant in St. John’s. It’s a rarity in other areas of Canada has led to it being top sodas sold in these parts. The sweet pineapple flavour has been a constant on the local scene for decades. Pineapple pop was introduced by Crown Beverages and has been a local party favorite ever since. As to exactly why the pineapple flavour did so well remains a mystery as does their trade flavor secret.

Newfoundland’s finest

Newfoundland Jam Jams are also a local delicacy. Jam Jams from Purity Factories are a Newfoundland institution. You can find them at any and every corner and grocery store. Full disclosure: they are crumbly and moist at the same time!

If you want to try a real succulent treat, have a moose burger. Moose meat in general is quite tasty but this was the only the second moose burger I’ve tried and I continue to not be disappointed!

Me, moose burgering it!

The best seafood chowder and fish and chips I’ve ever had was from Newfoundland. You can’t go wrong! The chowder is so creamy and loaded with seafood goodness.

Seafood chowder, fish and chips and a moose burger!

A trip to Newfoundland is not complete until you have participated in a “Screech-in” ceremony. Typically, you are made to repeat some local sayings along the lines of “Yes b’y”and a few others. Part of the evolution involves kissing a cod fish, drinking some Screech rum, and trying some Newfoundland Steak (bologna). I also had to kiss a stuffed puffin. After all this fanfare, you’ll get a certificate confirming your title as an honourary Newfoundlander b’y!

The exact procedure of the Newfoundland Screech-In Ceremony will vary depending on where you go to get it done. Regardless, the idea is the same!

My screeching in ceremony at Trapper John’s

Bay Bulls, NL

Bay Bulls is small fishing village a short distance (30 mins drive) from St.John’s. In these parts, this historic town is considered the getaway to the Irish Loop. Bay Bulls is a vibrant and welcoming community that offers several whale watching and puffin tours throughout the season (May to Sep).

Bay Bulls Harbour

Newfoundland and Labrador is home to some of the world’s most impressive geological formations. With more than 29,000 kilometres of diverse coastline to explore, we certainly discovered some unique rock formations along the peninsula. We were lucky that the day we chose to take a cruise was a beautiful sunny day with a next to nothing sea state.

Sandstone along the NL coastline

The Atlantic puffin is a sharply dressed black-and-white seabird equipped with a huge, multicolored bill. They are often referred to as the “clown of the sea”. Puffins breed in burrows on islands in the North Atlantic, and winters at sea. In flight, puffins flap their small wings frantically to stay in flight. In fact they can flap up to 180 flaps per minute…not terribly efficient, they are not considered to be super graceful.

Atlantic puffin taking off from the water

However, underwater those wings become powerful flippers that allow the birds to catch small fish and help them dive up to 250ft underwater. Additionally, puffins can hold their breath for up to a minute. They live for roughly 25 years and mate for life. How do puffins locate their mates? Pheromones and UV spectrums!

Lots of puffin activity:)

Conception Bay South & Topsail Beach

Conception Bay South is where the start of the well known East Coast Trail begins and the humble hub of the Royal Newfoundland Yacht club. Conception Bay is made up of about 125kms worth of islands and small communities that bring the total population to 90,000. Conception Bay South is home to Topsail beach which is one of this provinces prettiest, especially at sunsets. There is a sweet picnic area right on the beach and a play area for kids:)

Topsail Beach with Bell Island in the background

Dildo, NL

The town of Dildo has held its name since at least the early 1700s. It came long before the moniker for sex toys. However, the origin of this quirky town name is not totally clear nor does it have an obvious etymology. A dildo used to refer to any cylindrical tube, hence why the term was used to describe a vibrator, I think. This seems like an obvious extrapolation. LOL! Word on the streets of Dildo is the region gained its name from Captain Cook, who loved to give explored / discovered locations joke names.

Regardless of where its name came from, the modern meaning of a dildo is certainly well known……There are people that find this towns name offensive. In fact, there have been several ongoing petitions over the years to try and change it. The majority of the community however is 100% ok with its name and are proud to be from Dildo, NL. Jimmy Kimmel did a segment on Dildo a few years back and put this place on the map and people’s radar. This probably helped boost the community’s tourism and put Dildo’s controversial name into popular mainstream. The town now hosts an annual festival known as “Dildo Days” which is led by its mascot, Captain Dildo. No jokes!

Amused by the Dildo sign? I sure was 🙂

Terra Nova National Park

Terra Nova National Park is located on the east coast of Newfoundland along the Bona vista coast and about 2.5 hours drive from St. John’s. It is Canada’s most easterly National park. It’s unique name is from Latin which is the name for Newfoundland.

The park is free to get into as the highway connecting communities runs directly through it. Park permits are required for camping and overnight stays. The leaderboard at the park entrance details all the lookouts and trails you can choose from. Terra Nova is a gorgeous landscape that is deserving of your full attention if you choose to explore it.

The park’s rocky cliffs, till deposits and abundant ponds reflect the regional influence of glacial activity on its glorious landscape. The bays are adorned with tiny islands which contrast the deep blue fjords which indent the coastline. The rugged shorelines are home to colonies of herring gulls and black guillemots.

The boreal forest found inland are made up of most commonly black spruce and balsam fir. Terra Nova is also home to beavers, voles, otters, coyotes, black bears and lynx. Moose are also quite common in the park and there are signs everywhere along the highway warning drivers to be careful. Caribou, once common in this part of Newfoundland, are still occasionally spotted.

Canada’s most easterly National Park: Terra Nova

Flat Rock, NL

Most of the people in Flatrock are of Irish descent. There are some families that are of Norwegian descent. By far, the Irish heritage is is the most prevalent and still strong today. It can be seen in such things as religion, folkways, music, and dialect/accent.

Flatrock harbour

Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto is situated on a natural rocky outcrop located next to St- Michael’s Church on Windgap Road, Flatrock. It includes religious statuary, plaques, a pulpit, an altar, an iron gate, stone walls, walkways and steps, a grotto and other structures incorporated into the rocky outcrop.

Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto

We headed down to Stiles Cove which has an incredible view of Flatrock harbour. There is a beautiful hiking trail that starts at this point and goes towards Pouch Cove. On a nice day, this is a perfect way to spend the day:) The views are unspoiled and spectacular!

Pouch Cove & Portugal Cove, NL

Located only a short distance from St. John’s, this is a small fishing community of about 2000 people. For most of its history Pouch Cove has always been an informal place, with no government or council. During the 1960’s these committees advocated for Pouch Cove and pressured the new provincial government to open a highway from St. John’s to this seaside town. The pressuring worked because in Pouch Cove was incorporated in 1970 with their very own Town Hall being built in 1978. Today, Pouch Cove which is pronounced “pooch kov” is a thriving that enjoys to welcome visitors from all over.

Pouch Cove, NL

Portugal Cove is a picturesque community stretching along the Conception Bay coastline and several kilometers inland to border St. John’s, Paradise and Torbay. At just over 6000 residents, the community is home to organic farms, and gorgeous trails and panoramic vistas.

Portugal Cove, NL

Worth the visit or Not: WORTH

Newfoundland and Labrador is easily one of my favorite provinces to explore. This is an incredible place to add to your Canadian bucket list. I guarantee you won’t be disappointed. I’ve visited NL 3 times so far and although I haven’t experienced icebergs or whale watching yet, this place has me captivated by its competing landscapes and friendly people. That being said, Newfoundland is not known for its lovely weather. In fact, the weather here is unpredictable and temperamental. I’ve been privy to a mix of sun, wind, rain, fog, and of course cloudy weather…….and snow. It’s all part in parcel when visiting Canada’s most Easterly province.

When visiting, don’t forget to try something fun like axe throwing. It was my first time and I wasn’t particularly good at it. Traveling should be as much about exploration as it is about having fun and trying new things. When you try new things in a new place, it ensures your memories around your visit stay more engrained in your brain.

Lastly, if you want something visual to remember your trip by you can always purchase some local art, a knitted something or a stuffed puffin. Some tasty treats include Jam Jams and pineapple crush if that suits your fancy. If you are really adventurous, grab a bottle of Screech. Pineapple crush and screech don’t actually go together but you could always be a pioneer and do it anyway lol

Me at Jack Axes

Happy Travels:)

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