Kenya: From the big five to the great wildebeest migration!

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Nestled in East Africa, Kenya is often considered a must-see destination if you are looking to experience Africa’s natural and stunning beauty. It is known for its diverse and abundant wildlife which includes the big five (lions, elephants, cape buffalo, leopards and rhinos), spectacular scenery and a rich cultural and tribal history. Kenya is home to some of the most famous National Parks like Amboseli and Maasai Mara where you can observe with awe the great wildebeest migration.

A Masai giraffe in Nairobi National Park with Kenya’s capital city in the background.

Nairobi: The world’s only safari capital!

Nairobi is a modern and bustling city that sits at an elevation of 5400ft above sea level. There’s lots to experience from Maasai bead factories, to mouth watering restaurants to fantastic nature and wildlife viewing opportunities only 7 kms from the city. It certainly doesn’t shy away from showcasing its opulent culture, customs and history. Nairobi has got all the bases covered which is why people prioritize Kenya at the top of their bucket list when they consider coming to Africa. Nairobi is also a flight hub that is easy to connect to from within Africa and coming from Europe.

Food and Beverage

It is hard to paint all Kenyan cuisine with the same brush since Kenyan food has regional influences. Some Kenyan dishes combine and reflect India, Arab and European influences; whereas Swahili dishes use different spices entirely. Swahili cuisine consists of coconut, lime, ginger, tamarind and cream. The people of Kenya like to use locally sourced ingredients and tend to barbecue their meat.

Ostrich meatballs & Beef

Ugali is a staple dish in most regions. It’s made from maize flour and water that is boiled in water until it reaches a dough-like consistency. Ugali is usually rolled into a ball and then dipped into a sauce or stew made with vegetables and meat. It is delicious! We also were fans of katchumbari which is a mixture of chopped tomatoes, onions, and peppers which is akin to salad dish. Meals typically are served with fresh fruit and Chapati (a roti style bread).

Katchumbari & Ugali

Coffee and tea are of excellent quality in Kenya due to the ideal growing climate and altitude. Its coffee is world famous and is one of the country’s main exports. With tropical fruits like mangoes, watermelon, pineapple, and papaya among others readily available, fresh fruit juices are incredibly popular throughout the country.

Kenyan coffee

Tusker is among the most popular beers in Kenya. It has been brewed since 1922 using traditional methods that has contributed to its unique flavor. Tusker has a crisp, clean flavour that makes it incredibly easy to drink. Moreover, this brand of beer supports local Kenyan farmers by sourcing its ingredients directly from them. When you choose to enjoy a Tusker beer, you are not only enjoying a delicious beverage but also supporting sustainable farming practices.

Lastly, if you are looking for an impressionable culinary experience, the “Carnivore” restaurant in Kenya’s capital is a mouth watering and sensory overload evolution. You can choose between an all-you-can-eat lunch or dinner in an open air / garden setting. The meat options vary depending on the season but you can expect either ostrich, crocodile, and camel meats roasted on Maasai swords over a charcoal pit. Both lunch and dinner include soup and a range of side dishes, followed by a variety of delectable desserts and delicious Kenyan coffee.

The Carnivore restaurant in Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi National Park

A short drive from Nairobi’s central business district is the Nairobi National Park. This 147 sq km space is mostly wide open grass plains that is set against the backdrop of the city. Randomly scattered acacia bushes play host to a wide variety of wildlife which includes: including the endangered black rhino, white rhinos, lions, leopards, ostriches, cheetahs, hyenas, buffaloes, zebras and giraffes. Missing in action are the African elephants.

Nairobi National Park is 100% committed to protecting the endangered rhino and their efforts are one of the most successful in Africa. We were happy to have seen at least 7 white rhinos during our visit to the park making it a highlight.

Male white rhinos can grow to a height of 5.9ft tall and weigh up to 2,500 kg. However, despite their impressively large and boxy size, the white rhino can run up to 40 km/h in short spurts. And…..these endangered animals are herbivores that feed mostly on grass. White rhinos are more outgoing in nature than black rhinos however both varieties are stubbornly territorial. White rhinos have a calm disposition which means when they feel threatened they will most likely run away rather than charge.

White rhinoceros grazing next to our vehicle

There are roughly 2000 lions left in Kenya and 35 of them call Nairobi National Park their home. The most optimal time to see lions is at dusk and dawn when they are more likely to be actively hunting. The rest of the day is spent lounging around and resting. We happened to see 2 lions out looking for their next meal as they made their way around our vehicle. These particular 2 animals didn’t have much luck getting themselves a meal and eventually took off into the brush.

Lions out hunting

In the 1970s, Africa had about 1.2 million elephants. Today that number has dwindled to between 400,000 and 500,000. In 2016, Kenya’s president set fire to thousands of elephant tusks and rhino horns in Nairobi National Park destroying a stockpile that would have been worth a fortune to smugglers.

Burnt elephant tusks

Nairobi National Park continues to memorialize this event and when you drive through the park you will see 3 pits of burnt tusks and horns. The message was and has remained clear: the trade in these particular animal parts must be stopped and ivory is worthless unless it is still on the elephants and rhinos themselves.

Memorial

Finally, the park offers lots of opportunities to see Masai giraffes. These types of giraffes are native to Kenya and have very distinctive patterns that look like oak leaves. Both male and female giraffes have two distinct, hair-covered horns called ossicones. They eat for 16 to 20 hours a day and interestingly enough, giraffes only require 5 to 30 minutes of sleep in a 24-hour period.

Masai giraffes

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust operates the most successful orphan elephant rescue and rehabilitation program in the world. Embedded amongst acacia trees and on the edge of Nairobi National Park, this sanctuary is home to orphaned baby elephants of all ages who have been victims of the ivory poaching trade. The Daphne Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage rescues and rehabilitates elephants from all over Kenya.

Every day at exactly 11am the baby elephants are led out of the tree line so they can be fed by the attentive staff. After their tummies are full, the calves will play around in the mud. For one precious hour, we watched them and felt so lucky to witness such an incredible sight.

Orphaned elephants

The keepers also took the time to teach us how the program works and a small biography on each elephant including how and where they were found. We got to know Latika who was an orphan of the dry season, but with a cruel twist: she was also a snare victim. This sweet little girl’s struggle was compounded by the wire snare cinched around her neck. When the rescue team found her she was dehydrated, in pain and terrified.

Me and Latika

The Sheldrick Trust Orphanage is an educational experience that will tug on your heartstrings. It is a reality check of the cruelty that continues to be inflicted on these glorious creatures by humans. You have the option of coming back in the evening if you became a donor to meet the handlers and the orphans one on one. Looking a baby elephant in their eyes definitely gives you a perspective you never thought you needed.

The Giraffe Center

n 1979, the Giraffe Center, a nature sanctuary for visiting and including wildlife conservation education began in Nairobi. The program started after 2 baby Rothschild giraffes were captured with the intent to breed them. Since then, the program has had huge success, resulting in the introduction of several breeding pairs of Rothschild Giraffes into Kenyan National parks.

The Giraffe Visitor’s Center has been operating for 40 years much to the delight of children and adults alike. The main attraction for both school children and visitors is feeding giraffes from a raised observation platform. The Giraffe Center is also home to several resident warthogs.

A Rothschild giraffe being cheeky

The Giraffe manor is located on the property as well. I would have loved to stay there but reservations made up to 3 years in advance can make it challenging to include it in your itinerary. I had to contend with an afternoon spent with interacting with the 7 female and 3 male giraffes from the viewing platform. This experience did not disappoint and I almost didn’t want to leave as I kept saying to myself “just one more giraffe lick and kiss and then it’s time to go”. That turned into a 2 hour affair lol

Me feeding a Rothschild giraffe

Amboseli National Park

Amboseli National Park is in southern Kenya. It’s 392 km2 area’s claim to fame is being home to some of the largest big tusk elephant herds in the world. Located about a four-hour drive southeast of Nairobi, Amboseli National Park is Kenya’s second most popular national park after the Masai Mara National Reserve. In 1991 it was a declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

The entrance to Amboseli National Park

With exceptional views of snow capped Mount Kilimanjaro in neighboring Tanzania, Amboseli is a national icon. Kilimanjaro or simply referred to as “Kili” is the most popular mountain hiking and climbing destination in Africa. Those who cannot hike Kili look to catching a glimpse of what’s known as the roof of Africa and taking these iconic photos during their safari trip. On a day where clear skies prevail this incredible sight is the world’s tallest free-standing mountain. It’s massive conic structure with a white snow crest towers over the African plains that are home to the big five. It is a sight to behold!

Mount Kilimanjaro view from Amboseli

It is also the birthplace and land belonging to the Maasai people. The Maasai are the nomadic and pastoralist ethnic group inhabiting large parts of Kenya and across the border in northern Tanzania as well. They have strong customs and traditions which have been untouched by technology and modernization. The Maasai people possess unique characteristics ranging from culture, dress and diet among others. Moreover, they produce some of the best long distance runners in the world through their incredible genetics and health.

Amboseli’s Maasai tribe

The park also offers panoramic views of the plains and swamps. The wildlife includes giraffes, zebras, cheetahs and hundreds of wildebeests and elephants.

You just never know what you will see on any given day. This was the first time that I’d ever seen a jackal. I actually only previously heard the term “jackal” from the 1997 Bruce Willis movie. Lol

Parade of elephants, zebra crossing, a lone jackal and wildebeests

The park has over 1600 Elephants that inhabit it and freely roam its ecosystem. In Amboseli some of these elephants have held the world record of the longest elephant tusks and largest elephants ever recorded.

The Amboseli Elephant Research Project has also contributed to the population growth of these animals. The park also boasts the highest and the longest studied elephant population in the world.

Before conservation efforts were increased the elephant numbers at the park were deeply affected by human and wildlife conflicts. Thanks to the cooperation between the government of Kenya and the Kenya Wildlife Service, poaching has declined and is largely under control.

Up close and personal

Seeing so many, and so many large elephants and so close to our vehicle and, in one location was pretty magical especially because it gave us a chance to see them interact with one another.

The blue wildebeest, also called the common wildebeest, is a large antelope and one of two species of wildebeest. They inhabit the open plains and dry woodlands of Amboseli National Park. The males are highly territorial, using scent markings and other devices to protect his domain. They often travel alongside zebras who use the wildebeests as an added layer of protection from predators. The largest population of wildebeests is in the Serengeti, numbering over one million animals.

The blue wildebeest

Birding in Amboseli is good throughout the year. Most of the birds of Amboseli national park are permanent residents! The low lying swamps are an attraction for the loads of colorful birds. The places to view them are all easily accessed along a well maintained road track. Other birds of Amboseli National Park which live along the water are the flamingos, herons, pelicans, storks, egrets, Scared ibis, spoonbills, king fishers, cranes and many more. Amboseli also proudly hosts over 40 species of birds of prey and eagles make up the largest portion of that.

Grey crowned cranes, an eagle and black crowned cranes

There is something profoundly unique in Amboseli National Park. The different shades of barbie pink set against the dark waters of the lake…..Every couple of seconds, a flamingo or several lowers their beaks to reach out for something to feed on from the waters below. Large numbers of flamingos (up to 2000) may be present in the two rainy seasons from Match to May and from November to December. Their distinctive feathers and color are almost mesmerizing and make for some of the most interesting pictures I’ve ever taken.

Flamingos of Amboseli

Much to my surprise, spotted hyenas were abundant at Amboseli. I’d only ever seen hyenas at night while in Zimbabwe. It was a real treat to see them during the day. The spotted hyena is also called the laughing hyena. They in fact giggle. This giggle lets other hyenas know they have food to share. Though they look similar to large dogs, they are actually more akin to big cats. Definitely not ones I’d care to approach or pet as they have strong jaws and even stronger teeth.

2 spotted hyenas hunting

The Great Rift Valley

The Great Rift valley is another prized Kenyan attraction that people come from far and wide to revel in. It is the most well-known rift valley on Earth and it stretches from the Middle East to Mozambique. The area is also adorned with volcanoes, hot springs and geysers which make it quite geologically active.

It also boasts beautiful lakes and valleys which provide sanctuaries for a wide range of wildlife. 2 particularly exceptional bodies of water are Lake Naivasha (the highest of the Rift Valley lakes), and Lake Nakuru, which is also a National Park. More on those later 🙂

Hells Gate National Park

Hell’s Gate is a perfect day trip from Nairobi where, besides the wildlife and varied biodiversity you can enjoy mountain biking, and rock climbing.

Hells Gate National Park

Hells gate is aptly named for its intense geothermal activity within its boundaries. It takes up a spectacular one quarter of the Great Rift Valley. Stunning scenery including the towering cliffs, water-gouged gorges, stark rock towers, volcanoes and plumes of geothermal steam left me speechless.

Boat safaris are one of the most popular activities to do on Lake Navaisha. The best way to get up close and personal with the 1500 plus hippos out onto the lake is to take a professionally guided boat tour.

The shores of the lake are lined with giraffes and zebras. A typical boat safari takes between 1 and 2 hours. This activity is worth it’s weight in pure tranquility gold!

A Masai giraffe, Guinea fowls and Waterbucks

Lake Nakuru National Park

On the floor of the Great Rift Valley, surrounded by wooded and bushy grassland, lies the beautiful Lake Nakuru National Park. Game drives are the best way to enjoy the flora and fauna diversity. It is truly an enchanting and fascinating wildlife haven.

Lake Nakuru’s baboons and black and white colobuses

The day started off with a bang! As we headed into the park we came across at least half a dozen giraffes grazing on trees. They were in the distance. They all stopped and were staring off in the distance which prompted us to refocus. In the distance we saw several lions chasing a herd of buffalo back and forth out in an open area. The giraffes got spooked and heading our way. Before we knew it our vehicle was being flanked by these elegant creatures.

Epic wildlife

Lake Nakuru National Park is also a great birding destination with more than 400 species calling this venue their home. The soda lake is a birding hot spot and supports a lot of birdlife, including large flocks of pelicans. Nakuru is also one of the best places in Kenya to see the striking long-tailed widowbird. There is a good variety of raptors including Verreaux’s and long-crested eagle.

Worth the visit or not: WORTH

Kenya is home to breathtaking landscapes, super interesting cultures, stunning national parks and abundant in a wide variety of wildlife. It is an ideal place to experience the aromatic smells of street food and colorful corner markets that compliment the country’s effervescent energy.

With an abundance of successful conservation efforts, Kenya is known for preserving and protecting its magnificent animals and beautiful landscapes. And because pictures speak volumes, the wildlife I was able to capture while visiting is certainly proof that Kenya has all the wildlife boxes ticked off.

Kenya is blessed with a rich historical, cultural and natural heritage. This culturally diverse nation made up of different tribal groups, each with distinct languages, dress, music, and food. From the coastal Swahili people to the Maasai warriors in the wildlife rich grasslands, Kenya guarantees that you learn lots of new and cool things during your visit.

Kenyan inspired handicrafts, jewelry, home decor pieces, artwork, fabrics, handbags, souvenirs and coffee are all gems you can purchase to remember your trip by. The best places to buy any Kenyan. treasures are the markets which typically found in all cities, towns and tourist areas. When you decide on a piece or pieces you are expected to give the merchant a total for which you are willing to pay. After some bartering a price will be agreed upon and the deal sealed with a handshake.

If this is your first visit to Africa, I highly recommend beginning in Kenya. When you close your eyes and think of everything you imagine Africa to be, Kenya encompasses all of those thoughts and will make your African dreams come true!

Happy Travels 🙂

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