Brunei & Borneo: Brilliant and unchartered!

Suhlahmat! (Hello in Malay)

Brunei Darussalam is a very small, oil-rich sultanate of less than half a million people, making it the smallest country in Southeast Asia by population.

The country is officially Muslim, and Malay is the official language. The country follows an official Malay national ideology, Malay Islamic Monarchy, which promotes Malay language and culture, Islamic values, and the monarchy (led by a Sultan).

Brunei is an equatorial country on the northern coast of the island of Borneo. Borneo consists of 3 separate and distinct countries: the Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak, Indonesia’s Kalimantan, and also the entire country of Brunei.

For most of the last millennium, Borneo remained isolated from the rest of the world. However, in the 16th century, the Spanish and Portuguese reached Borneo’s shores. Soon after, the Dutch and British arrived, and it was these two latter nations that held power in Borneo from the 17th century well into the 20th century. In 1949, Indonesia became a foreign state, and in 1957, Malaysia gained its independence. Brunei followed suit and gained independence from the UK in 1984. No, George Orwell had nothing to do with it.

Brunei’s prosperity depends on its resources of petroleum, natural gas and timber. Given its immense wealth, (it’s the 11th richest country in the world) means the government is able to provide free medical services and free education through to university level. Additionally, Bruneians pay no income tax!

Food and Beverage

The cuisine of Brunei is influenced quite heavily by its neighbouring countries. Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia and even China and India all have rubbed off on the local cuisine. Given this, the food is usually quite spicy and meals are more often than not accompanied by either noodles or rice. Now, Brunei is a predominantly Muslim country so food is mostly halal and pork is not eaten. Alcohol also is a no no.

Nasi Lemak – which is a rice dish cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaves and it’s usually served for breakfast. Nasi Lemak can be served with many side dishes like eggs, chicken, beets, roasted peanuts or vegetables.

Beef Rendang – which is essentially slow cooked beef in lemongrass and coconut sauce. I’m not a huge meat lover or eater but anything with coconut and lemon grass really blows my hair back:)

Udang Sambal – Being a coastal country, seafood is the norm in Brunei so a dish like Udang sambal serai bersantan (it’s a mouthful to pronounce especially when ordering) is a creamy prawn dish cooked with coconut milk and chili. It is especially tasty!

Serongeng Padang– My husband was a huge fan of this fried chicken dish generously seasoned with garlic and wrapped in pandan leaves. It’s a great little snack and the fact that it comes wrapped in leaves makes it quite portable.

ABC – is a rather fetching desert / drink that combines ice with sago pearls, red beans and grass jelly. What is grass jelly you might be asking yourself? Grass jelly is made by boiling aged stalks and leaves of plastostoma palustre (from the mint family but slightly more bitter).

Durian – Now getting to the stinky, expensive, dangerous (I don’t know how many people die by falling durian fruit but I’m sure it’s more than coconuts) but revered durian fruit….Durian fruit is definitely smelly and the texture kinda repulses me when it’s in my mouth however, I always seem to find a way to keep trying it when I travel throughout Asia. Here in Brunei, tapau (like the 80’s band) refers to sliced durian packaged in plastic. Honestly, this is the best option for sampling durian the first time. I wish I would have gone this route for my first durian experience. It is also the cheapest option. Vendors with weigh scales on their tables sell their durian by the kilogram. Still not a fan lol

Bandar Seri Begawan

Brunei’s wealth is on full display in its capital city Bandar Seri Begawan, where flashy architecture and opulent mosques dominate the city. However, Brunei’s capital is also a city of contrasts. Despite its extravagant buildings, the streets of Bandar Seri Begawan are incredibly quiet, and the lack of nightlife for a capital city is a surreal.

What’s even quirkier is the fact that nearly half of the city’s population lives in a floating village. And by floating village that encompasses not only houses, but schools, restaurants, and police stations; which all rest on stilts in the middle of the Brunei River. Overall, Bandar Seri Begawan is very user friendly especially if you are looking to do it on foot.

Things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei which was the late father of the current sultan), Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien is surrounded by an artificial lagoon, that acts like a mirror for its golden domes. The interior is almost as lavish as the exterior. The floor and walls are made from Italian marble, the chandeliers were crafted in England and a 3.5-million-piece glass mosaic overlaying real gold leaf (21 carat) covers the main dome.

There are 29 golden domes on Brunei’s largest mosque to honor the nation’s 29th and current sultan. This mosque is an architectural masterpiece. Perfectly landscaped gardens and glamorous fountains surround the exterior as minarets soar 52m into the air. A grand total of 5,000 worshipers can pray inside at any given time.

Interestingly, the materials used to build the mosque were sourced from countries around the world. Granite was brought in from China, marble from Italy, carpets from Saudi Arabia, timber from the Philippines, and chandeliers from the U.K.

The mosque is the tallest building in the country, at a not-so-towering height of 53m lol. An interesting fact is that at one point, the Bank of Brunei built their headquarters higher than the mosque. That lasted all of 2 weeks and 3 days as the sultan ordered the top floor of the building to be removed.

Tasek Lama park

Brunei is blessed with plenty of natural rainforest parks and the Tasek Lama Recreation Park in the capital of Bandar Sei Begawan is definitely a must see. The hiking trails are epic and such a great way to spend a morning or afternoon. might hold the top spot for some. The trails are well maintained and scenic.

The park is home to many troops of Macaque monkeys. They are quite shy and tend to scurry past you when approaching. There were lots of babies when we visited which was neat because baby monkeys are always so curious.

Royal Regalia Museum

The Royal Regalia Museum is home to the Sultanate’s heirlooms and regalia. Most of the items are super glitzy! From golden chariots to olden-day symbolic weapons and shields, everything is way over the top. There are exhibits of His Majesty’s Silver and Golden Jubilee celebrations, and ornate mementos from historic Brunei.

This museum is embellished with the beauty of Brunei’s past in a way that feels like you are almost stepping into it. This museum must be viewed without footwear as the royal carpets and tapestry are layed down everywhere.

Tamu Kianggeh

Tamu Kianggeh is located at the banks of Kianggeh river. These waterways are constantly busy with the hustle and bustle of motorboats zooming by. This market has a variety of local vegetables like edible ferns and medicinal herbs which is pretty gnarly. There are some stands that feature several fishermen’s catch of the day as well as ready-cooked local dishes. Many of these local dishes will wet your appetite.

Kampong Ayer

From proletariat to bourgeoisie, as recently as a century ago, Kampong Ayer was home to all classes of citizens that call the Bruneian empire home. Kampong Ayer and its 10,000 residents have still found ways to balance old and new, regardless of class. Kampong Ayer is a close knit community that lives on stilts above the water.

Here many residents drive cars to work, then park them on a nearby carpark by the waterfront at night. Water taxis are still a favorite mode of transport, and locals enjoy the sense of community that comes from living as the original Bruneians do, in the close-knit community over the water. Despite being surrounded by and being constructed over water, traditional homes in Kampong Ayer are susceptible to fires because of their wooden construction.

Some sinks still drain directly into the river. Not all homes have sewage systems or follow ideal trash disposal practices. This results in much water in and around the village to become polluted, especially noticeable during low tide. Apart from the aesthetic, pollution greatly affects fishermen, who have been the community’s backbone for centuries. River garbage crews head out every 2 hours to clean up the water by order of the Sultan so there is an ongoing effort to try and clean this waterway up.

The Waterfront

The Bandar Seri Begawan is a new public space opened in Brunei with the explicit intent to uplift the nightlife or lack thereof in Brunei’s capital. This site of 1.8 hectare took 3 years to build and transformed it into its eye catching current state. We certainly enjoyed sightseeing and taking a leisurely stroll along the waterfront. There are plenty of outdoor cafes along the water too so if you get hungry or need a drink:) Either way, the waterfront is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon or evening.

Gadong Night Market

Brunei is a country reputed for its lack of nightlife. But if you have one evening in Bandar Seri Begawan, Gadong Night Market is a must visit. The market is Brunei’s largest market and draws in people on every night of the year.

During the 2010s, the Bruneian government wanted to improve the night market. Its transformation and subsequent grand re-opening included the entire market being roofed and having a solid floor. Amenities, like public sinks, and public seating was installed.

Since Brunei is not heavily trafficked by foreigners, the market maintains a local feel and extremely charming. Vendors are honest with their prices, warm with their smiles and not at all pushy. For food lovers like myself, this is a place where you can indulge your taste buds in local, regional, and exotic foods.

Istana Nurul Iman

Istana Nurul Iman is the biggest palace and royal residence of the world. This massive royal dwelling is several times larger than the Palace of Versailles and the Buckingham Palace. The name of Istana Nurul Iman means Palace (from Malay Istana) of the Light of Faith (Arabic` Nurul Iman).

The palace was finished on January 1st 1984, to coincide with the autonomy of Brunei. Would you believe that more than 1 billion dollars were spent on its construction? The Palace is home to Brunei’s Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. The palace stands on the banks of the Brunei River, several kilometers south of Brunei’s capital. It is open to the public once year following Ramadan (this includes visitors to Brunei) where you get to meet the royal family and eat copious amounts of food for free. This year is the year the Sultan is supposed to abdicate so that his son, the crown Prince will can take over at the age of 50. Fun fact: there is no security here or fencing.

Borneo Jungle Tour

Given the abundance of rainfall, it makes sense that Borneo’s flora is among the most diverse in the world. Borneo has nearly 11,000 species of flowering plants, about 1/3 of those are indigenous. How dense is the vegetation? In one 16 acre area of Borneo’s lowland forest, over 700 species of trees have been recorded. In comparison, there are only 171 native tree species in all of eastern North America.

Visiting Borneo without attempting to see its famous resident: the Proboscis monkey would be a travesty. This species is endemic to Borneo. They are found in coastal mangrove forests and lowland forests usually within close proximity to rivers. Proboscis monkeys are proficient swimmers as they have partially webbed feet. When crossing a crocodile infested river, this species will throw the youngest females (only females) into the water, if they don’t get attacked, it is safe for the troop to cross. The largest populations inhabit Sabah, which is located in Malaysian Borneo.

This particular species of monkey has a very distinctive appearance. The males in particular grow long noses, which may hang down over their mouths. They actually make me laugh because their noses look like flaccid uncircumcised penises. LOL! Theories suggest the length of the nose is a result of sexual selection by the females who may prefer larger noses and louder calls because larger noses increase the sound of a call.

This species has a large pot belly due to their diet of mainly young leaves and fruit which requires a large stomach with digestive bacteria. Proboscis monkeys are unusual in that males and females may both move between social groups throughout their lives. Typically a group will consist of a single mature male and a harem of females. However, females also compete to mate with males and may swap harems a number of times.

Sadly, proboscis monkeys have declined at a rate of approximately 50% in the last 40 years. According to the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, this is as a result of habitat destruction for logging and oil palm plantations. Palm oil will be the death of fragile ecosystems all over the world but hunting for food and traditional Chinese medicine also occur.

Ulu Temburong National Forest

Ulu Temburong National Park is perhaps Brunei’s best tourism attraction. The park covers approximately 50,000 hectares of pristine rainforest. Ulu Temburong’s steep terrain has limited human impact on the area and has ultimately helped preserve the area’s rich biodiversity.

Actually being inside the Bornean jungle makes you really question the madness and devastation that happens here due to palm oil extraction (in Indonesian Borneo mostly). Things like those 100 piece or 50 piece boxes of Halloween candy we buy in October to feed the neighborhood kids…..that candy is made from palm oil from Borneo. Bornean forests are home to unique and endangered fauna and flora that need its ecosystem and trees more than humans need the palm oil!

The Park covers 550 square kilometres in eastern Brunei. The Sultan’s ‘no cut’ policy in the 1990s stopped deforestation which helped preserve most of Brunei’s rainforest. Today, only 1% of the national park is open to the public. The park can only be accessed via longboat. Honestly, the journey deep into the Bornean jungle is part of the Temburong travel experience and its charm.

The rainforest is home to more than 40 species of butterfly, Gibbons, hornbills and pygmy flying squirrels. Ulu Temburong National Park is a biodiverse refuge that is also home to the elusive exploding ants. No jokes….So when their nest is invaded, exploding ants rupture their own abdomens, releasing a sticky, bright yellow fluid laced with toxins on whatever it decided to invade. Now the ants don’t survive, obviously, but their sacrifice helps save the colony. Imagine if that’s your only job in life? To be a kamikaze ant. We didn’t see any on our jungle trek so that means we have to come back and try again:)

A series of forest trails and plank walkways allow you get the most out the park. For us, the highlight of a trip to Ulu Temburong was tie canopy walkway which gave us a unique opportunity to observe the rainforest’s diverse treetop ecosystem.

My mind was blown as soon as I laid eyes on the entire greenery from above. The views from the top of the canopy walk are simply stunning.

Worth the visit or not: WORTH

Brunei, a small but a mightily biodiverse country often gets overlooked by travelers. Mostly because it’s not a well advertised or a flashy country. However, the unique blend of traditional culture, the beautiful mosques, and cool stilt villages built on water, hospitable people, amazing eats and pretty rad flora and fauna won’t disappoint. Honestly, the biodiversity is its main selling feature and makes it a truly wonderful place to visit.

Brunei is definitely not overcrowded by any means. There aren’t loads of explorers lined up around the block to visit the local sites which is an added bonus. You can pretty much fit everything there is to see in under 5 days. The wildlife in this country is pretty epic. And, you don’t have to look very far to find it either.

Nearly 3/4 of Brunei’s land area is covered by forest. It is the 3rd largest island in the world. The irony lies in that despite Borneo being so large, it is home to some of the smallest creatures on the planet, like the Pygmy squirrel.

As with almost all Muslim countries, Brunei is super safe. The combination of dressing modestly and the lack of drugs and alcohol definitely contribute to a pretty hassle free visit for women. Countries that have a death penalty and use it like Brunei, tend to have lower crime rates. Somehow the thought of death by stoning or firing squad is an effective deterrent!

Moreover, in 2014, the sultan announced he was going to be introducing Sharia law. Brunei’s Sharia (Syariah) Penal Code took full effect in April 2019. It applies to everyone, including foreigners and non-Muslims. Some crimes, including blasphemy and adultery are subject to the death penalty (stoning) under sharia law. So it’s really important to understand the law before you travel and you need to be prepared to respect it while in country.

Happy Travels 🙂