The world famous turquoise and translucent lagoons, prominent volcanic peaks and perfect stretches of beach decorated with palm trees all belong to an overseas collectivity of France. These 121 islands and atolls are set in the Pacific Ocean half way between Australia and South America. There are daily flights from San Fransisco on United Airlines and you only have to spend 8 hours in flight before you arrive in Papeete, the capital city on the island of Tahiti.
Papeete, Tahiti: the heart of the islands!
Papeete is akin to a peaceful and well mannered gathering place with lush gardens, colorful flowers and a sometimes punishing humidity that accompanies what seems like eternal sunshine. This capital has an excellent transit system that is cheap and very easy to use. This will enable you to visit all the cool and hidden treasures the island of Tahiti has to offer.
In the center of town is the architectural delight of the Mairie de Papeete (City Hall) building, the Robert Wan Pearl museum, the serene waterfront, Notre Dame Catholic Cathedral, the Papeete market and Bougainville Park. You can pretty much do everything on foot because all of these lovely things to see and do fit into the center of town. How much time you spend at each location depends on you:)
You may have heard about the famous black Tahitian pearls….it’s what has made French Polynesia so well known by way of conjuring up thoughts of deep tropical waters and swaying palm trees. They are usually fairly pricey too. To be truthful, black pearls aren’t actually black, they aren’t cultivated in or around Tahiti and their price depends on shape, size and luster. The Robert Wan museum is a great place to learn about the cultivation and origin of the black pearl. I highly recommend it. If anything it will only help you to make an informed choice when purchasing some pearls in this region if you so choose.
Food and Beverage
The cuisine of Tahiti is renowned for its fresh fish, exotic fruits, and vegetables which are prepared with a Polynesian influence and a touch of French panache. Tahitians also really like their pizza and you can find just about any topping on menus.
Seafood is very popular with shrimp, clams and local ocean fish being the most eaten. The national dish is ia ota or “poisson cru” which consists of raw fish marinated with lime juice and soaked in coconut milk. I ate this everyday for breakfast, lunch and supper. The islands also serve a variant called “Poisson cru a la chinoise” which is raw fish marinated in a soya sauce with vinegar and ginger.
Tropical fruit is also a specialty and fruits like pineapple, banana, coconut, mangoes, limes, papaya, oranges, and grapefruit are readily available.
French bread (baguettes), croissants or kato (biscuit like treats which are made with coconut milk) are all worth a try. Baguettes are cheap in French Polynesia as the government caps the price at 60 cents and you can find them everywhere, even at gas stations. Grocery stores open at 5 am on the islands so it you want really fresh bread that’s when you will have to get it:)
Les Roulottes are a great way to sample the local cuisine at a fair price. These rolling restaurants, are most often brightly colored and sometimes elaborately lit vans that come alive in the evenings. Thursday evening seems to be the night to revel in this mouth watering tradition. It felt like a food truck convention!
The traditional beer of Tahiti is Hinano lager and is available on tap, in bottles and cans. It is considered by many to be a very crisp and refreshing drink. Another popular beer is Tabu which is a pale lager. Fruit infused rum is a common theme among distilleries in the islands with pineapple being the most popular.
Tahiti Highlights
Tahiti is a small island so it really doesn’t take long to get around to see every inch. We started with the Arahurahu Marae archeological site which was neat. It is considered to be a sacred area and people come daily to give offerings to the Polynesian gods. The site is surrounded by incredible greenery and abundance of flowers. It didn’t take long to feel the serenity of this place.
Maraa Grotto and Faarumai Waterfalls are also nice choices when visiting the island. The Maraa Cave is a cave surrounded by ferns and lush vegetation, a popular attraction on Tahiti island tours. The cave has fish and you can swim inside. Faarumai Waterfalls are comprised of 3 separate waterfalls that you can reach by small hikes. It is a beautiful spot for a picnic or to savor the moment.
The Water Gardens of Vaipahi was also a pleasing highlight. This haven of peace has over one hectare and will invite you to take breathtaking walks among its natural treasures. With close to 75 different plant species, this botanical paradise is also home to a plethora of colorful flora.
Located on the tip of a picturesque peninsula that is surrounded with black sand beaches, is Venus point. The area used to be the historic landing site of many famed explorers. It is also home to the Venus Point lighthouse. There is a family friendly park that encompasses the beach area and families come on any given day to swim, surf, picnic or get some sun. Polynesian outrigger canoes can also be spotted in the area training, racing, as a means to relax or to simply embrace their beautiful culture.
There are many stray dogs in the area. This has been identified as a growing problem by the French Polynesian government and they intend to address it through multiple canine vaccination and neutering/spaying campaigns beginning in September 2023.
Lastly, Belvédère du Tahara’a is an iconic and panoramic viewpoint on Tahiti. There is parking and the walk to the viewing area takes 2 minutes. It is worth the 15 minute stop!
Mo’orea Highlights
Marvelous Mo’orea is a picture perfect Island filled with volcanoes and lush greenery. It is the closest island in proximity to Tahiti and can be accessed via a 10 minute plane ride or by a 30 minute ferry ride. We took the ferry and the transit was a bit rough. My husband was feeling the sea state and had to stand on the quarterdeck while I was able to withstand the jarring motion of the ocean and opted to sit inside the vessel.
What makes this paradise so appealing is it’s underwater component. Mo’orea is simply incredible for anyone interested in scuba diving, free diving, snorkeling or paddle boarding. It’s beauty is so genuine and pure that at times left me speechless.
The atolls become alive at sunset and sunrise. The stingrays, black tip reef sharks, moray eels, puffer fish, octopi, lion fish and multitude of fish species are plentiful.
Sharks sandbank is a shallow sandbank located in the north of Mo’orea lagoon. In a few feet of water, you will swim with dozens of blacktip reef sharks. The most we saw in one go was 8!
Tiahura beach has a shallow lagoon inhabited by a diversity of reef fish and a crazy cool channel visited by sea turtles and eagle rays on a daily basis. Locals call this the “turtle highway”! We saw 8 green sea turtles and 5 eagle rays in the span of 20 minutes:) So satisfying! The clarity of the water helps with underwater photography as does the light provided in this part of the world.
Bora Bora Highlights
The most recognized island in the South Pacific, Bora Bora is French Polynesia’s pristine and upscale utopia. This island’s beauty is unmatched with any other and it’s celebrity status among movie stars and influencers remains unchallenged. Moreover, it’s only a 50 minute plane ride to its shores.
Bora Bora is relatively small however what’s interesting about it is that it is a volcano set on one of the most surreal lagoons in the world. With infinite shades of blue, the motus (or small inlets) surround one white sand beach after another. Bora Bora is quite simply majestic!
The Bora Bora lagoon is home to hundreds of amazing tropical fish species, stingrays galore, magnificent manta rays and black tip reef sharks. There are also coral gardens located inside the lagoon which is quite docile and calm. Make sure you bring sunscreen and a rash guard to wear because the sun is intense but it’s reflection off the ocean can be crippling.
It was nice and relaxing to cruise around the lagoon by boat and take in the fresh sea air. Taking a boat around also gives you the chance to see all the opulent resorts with their overwater bungalows.
Another way to explore the 32 km island circumference is by moped. We booked one and on the day of there were none available. The car rental company provided us with a small car with no charge for gas. We even got a cool map at the rental counter that helped us to pinpoint all the not to miss spots.
We stopped at a manta ray cleaning station marked on the map. We quite literally walked out to the start of the coral reef and swam to the outer edge until it succumbed to the deep blue ocean and we waited. We waited, swam and free dove until the first manta ray appeared. Cleaning stations are areas where manta rays frequent while carrying parasites on their bodies where they know fish are plentiful. This optimizes their chances of getting cleaned. This is done to get rid of the parasites. Once a cleaning station becomes known to other manta rays it becomes a twice or more times a day ritual. Words cannot express the gracefulness of these beautiful sea creatures. You have to experience their presence to truly respect and understand the awe they inspire.
Mount Pahia is a prominent peak which happens to be the second largest mountain on Bora Bora. With an elevation of 661 meters above sea level, it is impressive to look at. Mount Pahia is also an extinct volcano formed by twin peaks.
The beaches located in every nook and cranny of Bora Bora are all heavenly. They are ubiquitous!
Bora Bora wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the famous Bloody Mary’s bar and grill. Overlooking the unspoiled landscape of Povai Bay, Bloody Mary’s is Bora Bora’s most renowned restaurant. Every celebrity who has ever eaten at this place is commemorated on a wall at the entrance. The restaurant is a quirky tiki style fan favorite with a sandy floor and reasonable prices. Bloody Mary’s is definitely worth the hype.
Worth the visit or not: WORTH
French Polynesia is a place where music, dance and art were born from the purity of everyday island life. It’s also the birthplace of javelin. Today, the gentle people of these islands have inherited a rich, dignified and expressive culture from their ancestors. One where warriors and gods created legends. The islands are a serene, welcoming and peaceful place to visit.
Bringing a few treasures back from French Polynesia is a nice way to remember your trip. The jewelry, craft, sarong, monoi oil, vanilla options are all solid choices. Tahitian pearls from pearl farms on the Tuamotu and the Gambier Islands (the 2 islands they are cultivated on) are the go to souvenir for most travelers. They can be mounted or unmounted (pendants, earrings, bracelets, rings). The prices vary depending on a number of factors but whatever your choice, ensure you get the official certification and the pink copy goes to customs at the airport on departure.
Pictures are sometimes worth 1000 words so I’ll just leave the picture I took of a sunset here and you can decide for yourself if you want to experience all French Polynesia has to offer.
Happy Travels 🙂
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